Mường Lay in My Memories

Mường Lay immediately draws you in with the dreamy beauty of its expansive lake region. It's a place where majestic mountains and winding rivers gently blend, crafting a serene and utterly captivating landscape.
The Peaceful Beauty of Mountains and Rivers in Harmony
Though covering an area of less than 12,000 hectares, Mường Lay town sits in a narrow, long valley where three waterways converge: the Đà River, Nậm Na River, and Nậm Lay stream. When the water level of the Sơn La Hydropower Reservoir rises over 200 meters across an expansive area of more than 100 acres, Mường Lay transforms into a poetic reservoir region. Stopping here, one feels a profound connection between the present and the past.

Bản Xá Bridge over the Đà River.
If you have the chance to explore the reservoir area, travelers can visit Lai Châu province to see and learn about the former residence of Thái King Đèo Văn Long, and observe the cage fish farming models of the local people. This area also consistently attracts those who love exploration and adventure, offering activities like fishing on the Đà River, mountain climbing to discover the Bản Bắc cave, or trekking through the forest to visit villages nestled on steep mountain cliffs. From Mường Lay to Lai Châu, you can embark on a poetic journey starting from the new Hang Tôm Bridge, passing through Chăn Nưa, then to Pa Tần - Phong Thổ, covering a distance of over 100 kilometers. The Nậm Na River winds along the old road's serpentine curves. Many sections of the river suddenly broaden, stretching to the mountain cliffs and the horizon, where once there were rice fields, bathing spots for villagers, or fertile ground for buffalo and cows to graze amidst the evening forest bell sounds. From a distance, you can see villages with charming stilt houses perched on high ridges, appearing and disappearing amidst drifting misty clouds. Occasionally, a dugout canoe glides across the river, like a shuttle weaving through an embroidered brocade, adding a poetic touch to this mountainous region.

Beyond its famous stilt houses, Mường Lay is also adorned by its bridges. Among them is Hang Tôm Bridge, once hailed as "Indochina's First Bridge" – the largest bridge in Indochina. This bridge gracefully spanned the banks, connecting Điện Biên and Lai Châu. Just like the residence of Thái King Đèo Văn Long, the entirety of the old Hang Tôm Bridge now lies submerged in the deep reservoir. Standing on the new Hang Tôm Bridge, one can't help but feel a nostalgic connection to the past. Mr. Khăm Ching, our guide in Mường Lay, recounted that beneath the old Hang Tôm Bridge was a shrimp cave, home to countless blue-clawed prawns, which served as a food source for the Thái King and the people of Mường Lay. Mường Lay captivates not only with its poetic natural landscapes but also with the diverse and unique cultures of its ethnic communities. Each ethnic group here possesses its own distinct cultural identity, creating a rich and vibrant tapestry of beauty. Mường Lay is considered the capital of the White Thái people in Điện Biên, the birthplace of charming hat dances, scarf dances, and fan dances. Many Thái dancers of old were even selected by Thái King Đèo Văn Long to perform at his residence during celebrations or receptions for Western officials from the motherland. After the liberation of Điện Biên, these dancers were freed from their "caged fish, caged bird" existence, passing their remarkable skills down to future generations...

Row of stilt houses in Mường Lay.
Today, visitors to Mường Lay can also explore traditional craft villages, such as brocade weaving and ethnic instrument making in Na Lay ward, wood production and processing in Sông Đà ward, or household wickerwork in Lay Nưa commune. In the evening, settling into a traditional stilt house, one can savor enticing local specialties like *canh bon*, *nộm hoa ban*, *gỏi*, *lạp*, and various grilled fish dishes. Of course, the regionally famous *cá lăng* (Hemibagrus catfish) and Đà River prawns are absolute must-tries. Amidst the intoxicating aroma of corn wine carried on the breeze, you can join in the xòe dance, and let your soul drift with the sweet singing voices of the Thái girls. Leaving the legendary Hang Tôm Bridge, our car passed through Mường Lay almost unnoticed, as the history of name changes has muddled the memories of place names along National Highway 12. The former Lai Châu town of old Lai Châu is now renamed Mường Lay; while the Mường Lay of yesteryear is now called Mường Chà.

As the faint sunlight slowly descends from the high mountain peaks, Mường Lay town appears gilded in golden light during sunset. Standing on Bản Xá Bridge and gazing down at the Đà River, my heart recalled the writings of author Nguyễn Tuân. But the legendary Đà River is not merely portrayed as a malevolent force during flood seasons; it has also, for generations, sustained the Thái people of this region with an abundance of shrimp and fish, filling their boats after conquering nature's challenges. These bountiful gifts from the Đà River are specialties that welcome distant guests, tasted once and remembered forever. Our car drove along the Đà River under the golden moonlight, which seemed to pave the road like a soft silk ribbon, passing closely built stilt houses with stone-tiled roofs. On the gables, several young Thái girls with fair skin and soft hair, bathed in moonlight, stood gracefully amidst the soft, thin mist.
Farewell, Mường Lay; farewell, Đà River – we hope to return another day.
Dien Bien 5069 view
Update day : 19/10/2023
Source : baodienbienphu.com.vn Affiliate links
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